The fast breaking waves keep you on your toes. Unknown making his calculations.
fat wave. I pearled, as this was becoming something for me to do (I guess) during
this trip, and proceeded to have the velcro on my leash easily ripped off. The fifteen minute paddle out
on my 10'3" log turned into a fairly fast swim/body surf back to shore. I paddled back out and repeated
wiping out for about an hour an a half. I must have at that point had enough and began to catch every
wave taking them all the way to the beach, kicking out then paddling back out. This lasted for some time
as the few people who were out in the line up all left, leaving me to feast.
After six days of surfing, paddling miles I'm sure, my body was done. My left shoulder
and elbow were
screaming for rest popping at every opportunity. I usually surf spots where the paddle is long but not hard.
Here in Dominican Republic the paddle is hard and long. When I go on surf trips I employ my philosophy of surf
smart and don't over work yourself if you don't have too. Once again, here in Dominican Republic no matter how
smart I was hoping to be I still got a work out. A big one at that.
Since I stayed local and didn't explore further than the nearby spots to where Antonio drove us too I can't
say how many world class waves exist on the country's north coast. After doing a closer look
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What makes a good surf trip? Finding euphoria or something like it in the Dominican Republic