Unknown navigating around the Playa Encuentro reefs fast sections.
scenery and lifestyle photo day. The size of the waves ranged from chest to couple feet over head almost everyday. When the North Swell arrived things looked up. Barrels everywhere. One guy came in with a five stringer gunnish longboard snapped in half. Yeah it was a rush. I picked off a couple on my 9-0. Surfed it hard got some fun off the tops and what not. Was stoked to do so as I'm usually sliding causally on my big boy single fin back home in Florida. The walls were abundant as the swell rose up causing the waves to close out more. After a while there were only certain waves letting people in. I set up for a fast tapering shoulder on a double overhead drop hoping to be set up on a good line before the wave hit the reef.
As I dropped, the wave went sub surface and the radical change of the
curve in the wave face caused me to have a clean pearl. If pearls are ever clean. I looked up
towards the massive wall transforming into a pitching lip then gapping barrel. The gapping
tunnel looked incredibly beautiful as the light blue faded into a darker edge highlighted
by white and shimmering light. When the split second of appreciation was over I knew a spin
in the washing machine was inevitable. As I kicked off the reef I realized how much juice
these guys had. Pushing my big body down some ten to fifteen feet is some power.
The water clarity. What?! Can't beat it. On the calmer days it's like sitting in an aquarium.
On the windy days it's murky.
>
What makes a good surf trip? Finding euphoria or something like it in the Dominican Republic