California Journal Entry 1/21/04

Written on January 21st, 2004:

We arrived at LAX on the 18th. The city was fully overcast and the air temp was mild with no wind. We drove out to Camarillo and checked into our hotel, the Holiday Inn Express. The Net hook up became an issue so it wasn't dealt with until this date.

We ended up driving out to Malibu from Las Posas Rd. from Camarillo. The road takes you through some farm fields and close to Point Mugu military base area. We drove down the coast and the swell was pumping. There were people checking the surf all the way down the coast to Malibu. Big rollers were arriving as we drove into the Zuma Jay's Surfshop parking lot right across the street from the Malibu Pier. We rented two BIC's, Jeff's was a 7'3" shortboard (kinda), and mine a 9'0" longboard (yeah right, for a little kid) . Both were the worst boards either of us surfed, not to say anything bad about Jay the owner which was a very cool guy. Anyway, you gotta ride what you got. We both jokingly figured that Cali would have surfboards for rent at the local Wal-Mart, we were mistaken. All the shops in the local Ventura area had no used glass boards, just softtops (what?).

O.k., we went out to Malibu and got in, the sky was overcast and the water a fresh 55 degrees. Ouch, for us Florida boys it was bone chilling, even though we have been getting similar water temps. The kelp was keeping the waves well groomed and the crowds were in effect. We both walked out to the river mouth and went out. It was about double overhead on sets and very lined up. Kelp tangles occurred with a little frustration, but some choice waves were caught. We surfed past dark. We got out and took in the entire experience. Fun is what we both thought.

The next morning we went up to Rincon. Oh yeah, about a half hour drive from our hotel. As we drove up the coast we watched glassy peelers coming in and we were pumping with excitement. As we pulled up to the parking lot there weren't that many cars. We walked down to the water and paddled out. The paddle was a bit tough and the sets waves were easily double overhead plus on the sets. As the morning wore on more and more people showed up. We then realized that it was MLK Day. It was a repeat Sunday crowd. We dealt with it the best we could and caught a couple of good waves. I got drilled on one wave that didn't want to let me up, the fright happened. I got back into it and finished up the morning session with good memories.

Later on that evening we drove down to Ventura Point. The wave was mushy compared to Rincon and the paddle was unreal. Being use to my 11 footer, the rental was getting me frustrated on it's lack of wave catching ability. I think I caught one good wave the entire evening. Oh well. A seal came up and blinked it's eyes at me and swam off, it got cold and I went in.

The following morning we went back out to Rincon. The swell size dropped and was about head high on the sets. Less people was key and I got one wave that made the day worth while. As I drove down the line I was able to get a nice high line and perch myself in trim and get a nice little soul arch going as I slid down the line. I felt in tune with the "Con". That wave was dedicated to Uncle Mike for sure. We hung in there as long as we could before the cold fatigued us to total exhaustion and we went in.

We didn't go out yesterday evening, this morning or tonight. The swell slacked off and we figured we rest up. There will be swell arriving tomorrow afternoon (1/23/04). We will be driving down to San Diego to meet up with Chad in the afternoon and surf the evening session with him. Both BIC's will be left behind in our hotel room. Chad has some real boards for us to use, Chad, you da man!

More to come in the next journal entry.

- Arsen Brzostek